Showing posts with label TUTORIALS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label TUTORIALS. Show all posts

Sunday, October 2, 2016

Maple Street Table Runner


a fast, easy, and FREE table runner tutorial for Fall
Fat Quarter Friendly



This pattern is named after a special place in my life... the street where I grew up.
It was my parents' first home, and a place full of fun family memories.    


To make this table runner you will need 4 different fabrics for the leaves (fat quarters),  

4 complimentary fabrics for the stems (scraps),  a neutral background fabric, 
2 complimentary fabrics for the borders, and 1 for the binding.

For each LEAF block you will need to cut the following:

Leaf Print:

(1) 5" x 5"
(1) 8 1/2" x 4 1/2"
(1) 12 1/2" x 4 1/2"

Background:

(1) 5" x 5"
(2) 4" x 4"
(3) 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"

Stem Print:

(1) 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"


The fasted way to construct the runner is to chain piece the block pieces.
If you prefer to make one block at a time that's okay too.
Please READ each step completely to avoid the seam ripper.

RST = Right Sides Together

HST=  Half  Square Triangle
WOF = Width of Fabric


Use a 1/4" Seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

It's important your 1/4" seam allowance is accurate.   If your seam allowance is too generous your finished pieces will be too small. 


  • Click on any photo to enlarge and view details.

1.  Start by drawing a diagonal line on the back of all the 4" x 4" and 5" x 5"  background squares.
    Set aside (4) 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" background squares.

    Draw a diagonal line on the back of the remaining 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" background squares.



2.  Layer a marked 5" background square on a 5" leaf 
      print, RST. Repeat with remaining 5" squares.
     Pin in place.
    (top corner is pinned down for illustration purposes only)

3.  Layer a marked 4 1/2" background square on the left
     end of the 12  1/2" x 4 1/2" leaf print RST.  
     Note the direction of the diagonal line. Pin in place.
     Repeat with remaining 12 1/2" x 4 1/2" leaf prints. 

4.  Layer a marked 4 1/2" background square on the left
      end of  the 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" leaf print RST.
     Note the direction of the diagonal line.  Pin in place.
     Repeat with remaining 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" leaf prints. 

5.  Layer 1 marked 4" background square on a 4 1/2" stem square RST matching the outer corners. (shown in step 8)  Repeat with remaining stem prints. 




6.  Start with the 5" squares, stitch 1/4" from the diagonal line.  
     Turn and stitch on the other side 1/4" from the diagonal line.
    
  


7.  Stitch on the line for all the 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles and the 12 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles.


8.  Stitch on the line for all the 4 1/2" stem prints. 



9.  Time to cut and trim. 
  • Cut all the 5" leaf squares in half on the diagonal marked line.
  • Trim all the rectangles 1/4" from the stitching line.  Set corners aside for border. 
  • Trim all the stem prints a 1/4" from the stitching line. Set pinned portions (triangles) aside for the border.


                        5" leaf square                    leaf rectangles                            stem square
         

10.  Time to press.  Dry Iron, No Steam, No Starch


  • 5" leaf square halves: Press to background.  Square up to 4 1/2".  Turn over & press seams open.
  • Leaf Rectangles:   Press open to the background.  Turn over and press seams open.
  • Stem Square:   Press open to the background. 




11.  Finishing the stem squares.  (do this step for all 4 stem squares.)

       Layer a 4" background square on the opposite corner of the prepared stem square.  

       Pin in place.  Stitch on the line.   Trim 1/4" from the stitching and set aside the pinned   portion.  Press open to the background. 






12.  Layout your leaf block as shown paying attention to the direction of the HSTs in the top row.
       You should have a 4 1/2" background square for the top row you set aside earlier.
       Both HSTs go in the top row. 

       The 12 1/2" rectangle goes in the center.
       The 8 1/2" rectangle goes in the bottom row with the prepared stem. 




13.   Sewing the pieces.


  • Start with the top row.   Sew the squares together.  Press open to the left towards the solid background square.
  • Center row is already done.
  • Sew the leaf rectangle to the stem square.  Press open to the leaf  rectangle. 


14.  Sewing the rows.



  • Sew the top row to the middle row.  Press open to the top row. 
  • Sew the middle row to the bottom row.  Press open to the center row. 


 note:   if you turn your block over the horizontal seams should be facing up.


TIP:  If you're not sure which way to press, whatever fabric is on top when pressing is the
          direction you are pressing to.   For example, with RST, if the back of the leaf print is on top, you are 

          pressing open to the leaf print. 



15.  Layout your finished leaf blocks.  

       Stitch your blocks together.  Press open to the right toward the HSTs.  
         



16.  Borders
       Your table runner should measure 12 1/2" x 48".   
       I like to cut my border strips a little longer than needed.  I rather trim off a little than run short.

Inner Border:
       From your inner border fabric, cut (3) strips 1 1/2" x WOF.  
       Trim off the selvages and sew all 3 strips together on the 1 1/2" end.  
       Subcut 1 strip 49".  Starting from the opposite end of the strip, subcut 1 strip 49".  
       Cutting from opposite ends will give you the same amount of pieced fabric on each strip. 
       Cut the remainder of the strip in half, OR cut (2) 14 1/2" x 1 1/2" from the remainder.
  • Sew the 49" strips on first.  Trim excess.  Press open to the border.
  • Sew the short strips on the ends. Trim excess. Press open to the border.


Outer Border: 
       Take the corners (triangles) you trimmed off during construction and stitch them RST together on the cut edge, RST.  Make 10.

       Press open to the background fabric.  Square to 2 1/2" x 2 1/2". 
       Flip the units over and press seams open to help reduce bulk. Stitch 5 prepared HSTs together to create a strip you will sew onto the border strip. Make 2. 



      From your outer border fabric cut (3) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Trim the selvage off.  
  • Sew a HST strip to the 2 1/2" end of 1 border strip.  
  • Sew a HST strip to the opposite end of another border strip. (see photo below)
  • Starting at the end with the HSTs, sew on the outer border on both long sides. Trim off excess.  Press open to the inner border.  (note: Pressing this step is easier from the back. Then turn the runner over and press the top.)
  • Sew the end border pieces on.  Trim off excess.  Press open to the outer border.

17.   Finishing
        Sandwich your table runner top with a layer of batting and backing fabric.
        Quilt as desired.  Square up.  Bind with your favorite binding method. 

TIP:  Low loft batting is better for a table runner. 
          A crib size batting cut in half lengthwise will make 2 table runners. 
     


I hope you enjoy making this table runner.  I would love to see your creations. 
Be sure to tag @tillalili on Instagram. Thanks! 

Please include the following hashtags when posting your photos on Instagram.
#tillalilipatterns
#maplestreetpattern
#maplestreettablerunner







 




Maple Street tutorial designed by Gwen Sager of  Tillalili.
©2016 Tillalili, LLC - All rights reserved.  The contents of this blog post is protected by copyright law.  No portion of this post may be copied without prior written permission of Tillalili, LLC.  Photos are the sole property of Tillalili, LLC. 




Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Mini Stacking Blocks Quilt


After making the original Color Block Quilt  I thought it would look super cute smaller.  I had a collection of SusyBee fabrics  just waiting for the right quilt.... this was it!

So I proceeded to make the quilt the same way I made the original.  It wasn't until after I finished sewing on the last border that I realized I only had 5 rows instead of 6. I was way too far to turn back and add a 6th row.  Having no idea if it would even look right,  I added a few more borders, top and bottom, to add length.

It looks.....Adorable!

(click on any image to enlarge)

















This quilt, and other baby quilts, can be purchased here.
The fabric used to make this quilt is available here.

















Photos property of  Tillalili, LLC and cannot be copied or duplicated without permission by Tillalili, LLC. copyright ©2014 Tillalili, LLC - all rights reserved


Saturday, August 9, 2014

Fat Quarter Friendly Stacking Blocks Quilt Tutorial


(click on any image to enlarge)

I wanted to make a quilt that was fat quarter friendly.  After all, we all have a great stash of fat quarters, Right?  So here's a simple, easy, quick pattern that can easily be made using fat quarters.  The quilt top can be completed in just a few hours.   With machine quilting and binding, the entire quilt can be finished in a weekend.

Finished size approx. 37" x 47

WOF = width of fabric

1/4" seam allowance


What you will need:  (see diagram below for fabric placement)

  • 6 Fat Quarters - fabric A thru F
  • 1.25 yards if making vertical stripe as shown - fabric G & binding  (or -  1/4 yard fabric G, plus 1/3 yard binding fabric of choice)
  • 1/2 yard white for sashing & borders
  • 1.5 yards for backing
  • Batting of choice
  • Rotary cutter
  • Cutting Mat
  • Iron
  • Sewing Machine
  • White cotton thread


CUTTING:
  1. Cut one 6.5" x 19.5" strip from each Fat Quarter (A - F)
  2. Cut one 6.5" x 6.5" square from each Fat Quarter (A- F)
  3. Cut the entire half yard of white into 2" x WOF strips.  Trim off the selvage. You can sub-cut 5 strips 19.5" long, and 5 strips 6.5" long, but it's easier and faster to cut them after they're sewn onto the rectangles and squares.
  4. Cut fabric G (depending on your fabric choice) 6.5" x 44" - or - 6.5" x WOF - trim selvage edge off of one end.


Refer to this chart for placement in instructions.


INSTRUCTIONS:

1.  Sew a 2" strip of white onto the bottom 19.5" side of rectangle fabric A.


2.  Repeat with rectangles B, C, D, E.  Not F.
3. Press seams.  Trim off excess.

Continuing with rectangles. 

4. Sew top of fabric B to the white strip on the bottom of fabric A.



5.  Sew top of fabric C to the white strip on the bottom of fabric B.
6.  Sew top of fabric D to the white strip on the bottom of fabric C.
7.  Sew top of fabric E to the white strip on the bottom of fabric D.
8.  Sew top of fabric F to the white strip on the bottom of fabric E.
9.  Press seams. Trim excess. 

10. With white fabric strips, or the 2" x 6.5" strips if you sub cut.
       Repeat the instructions above to sew together the 6.5" squares.

11. Press seams, trim to square.

You should now have two sections that look like this. (Photo coming soon)
(I clearly did not expect to publish a tutorial when I took this photo) ;-)







12.  Sew a 2" x 44" white strip (#2 & #3) to each side of fabric G.
        Press seams.  Trim edges. Set aside.




For these next steps, always start sewing at the top (fabric A) matching the trimmed edges, and sew to the bottom.  The sashing will be slightly longer.

13. Sew a 2" x 44" white strip to the right side of strip of squares (#1).  Press seam.  
14. Sew the left side of the strip of squares to white strip (#2).




15. Sew a 2" x 44" white strip (#4) to the left side of the strip of rectangles. Press seams.
16. Sew the right hand side of the strip of rectangles to white strip #3.  Press seams.  
17. Trim excess and square. 

18.  Sew a 2" x 37.5" white strip (#5 & #6) to top and bottom.
19.  Press seams. Trim and square.


20. Add batting and backing, and quilting of choice.
I did a simple meandering.






21. Trim and square quilt. Add binding.  Enjoy! 
(there are many great videos on squaring & binding on  YouTube)





Here's my finished quilt. 




















Fabric used in this quilt are from tillalili.com


Photos, Pattern,  and Instructions are the property of Tillalili, LLC and cannot be copied or duplicated without written permission by Tillalili, LLC.

copyright (c)2014 Tillalili, LLC - all rights reserved